What To Do With Mums In Winter – Save Your Perennials For Next Year
You probably bought those vibrant chrysanthemums to add a splash of autumn color to your porch or campsite. Most people treat these beautiful plants as annuals, tossing them into the compost bin as soon as the first frost hits. However, if you want to build a sustainable homestead or a self-sufficient garden, you should learn how to keep them alive.
I agree that it feels discouraging when those bright blooms turn brown and brittle overnight. The good news is that many varieties are actually hardy perennials that can survive the harshest months if you treat them right. In this guide, I promise to show you exactly how to protect your plants so they return even stronger next season.
We will explore the specific steps for what to do with mums in winter, whether you are gardening in a backyard or keeping plants in an RV. You will learn about insulation techniques, indoor storage, and how to identify which plants are worth saving. Let’s dive into the practical skills you need to master winter dormancy.
Table of Contents
Understanding Your Mums: Hardy vs. Florist Varieties
Before you decide what to do with mums in winter, you must identify what kind of plant you actually have. Not all chrysanthemums are created equal when it comes to cold tolerance. Knowing the difference between “hardy” and “florist” varieties will save you hours of wasted effort on a plant that simply cannot survive a freeze.
Garden mums, often called hardy mums, are the ones you want for long-term landscaping. These plants produce underground stolons, which are specialized stems that help the plant survive the winter. They are bred to handle the fluctuating temperatures of USDA Hardiness Zones 5 through 9, making them perfect for most outdoor enthusiasts.
Florist mums, on the other hand, are bred for large, showy blooms and temporary indoor display. These varieties rarely produce the stolons needed to survive a deep freeze. If your mum came from a floral shop or a grocery store interior, it likely lacks the root structure to withstand a winter outdoors, regardless of your protection efforts.
Checking the Root System
If you are unsure which type you have, look at the growth habit. Hardy mums usually have a more mounded shape and many small flower heads. Florist mums often have fewer, much larger flowers and thinner stems. If you are homesteading, always prioritize purchasing certified hardy varieties from local nurseries.
Another factor is the timing of your planting. If you put your mums in the ground in late October, they may not have enough time to establish a root system before the ground freezes. For the best chance of survival, aim to plant your perennials in the spring or early autumn to give them a head start.
what to do with mums in winter: Step-by-Step Outdoor Care
Once you have confirmed your plants are hardy, you need a solid plan for the first frost. The primary goal is to protect the root ball from the “freeze-thaw cycle.” This cycle happens when the ground freezes at night and thaws during the day, which can actually heave the plant out of the soil and expose the roots.
First, resist the urge to prune the dead foliage immediately after the first frost. While the brown stems look messy, they provide a natural layer of insulation for the crown of the plant. These dead branches trap snow, which acts as a secondary insulator against the biting wind and sub-zero temperatures.
Wait until the ground has officially frozen before you add your protective layers. If you apply mulch too early, you might trap too much moisture or heat, which encourages rot or fungal growth. Patience is a virtue when preparing your garden for the long haul of a winter season.
Applying Heavy Mulch
When the ground is cold and firm, apply a thick layer of mulch around the base of the plant. Use at least 4 to 6 inches of organic material like clean straw, shredded hardwood, or evergreen boughs. This layer keeps the soil temperature consistent, preventing the damaging heaving process mentioned earlier.
Avoid using heavy, wet leaves that mat down and block airflow. Instead, use light, airy materials that allow the plant to breathe while still providing warmth. If you are camping or living off-grid, pine needles gathered from the forest floor make an excellent, free mulching material for your garden beds.
Watering During Dormancy
Many people forget that plants still need moisture during the winter, even when they are dormant. If you experience a dry winter without much snow cover, check the soil moisture levels during a thaw. If the ground is dry several inches down, give your mums a light watering to keep the roots hydrated.
Never water when a hard freeze is expected that same night. The goal is to keep the roots from desiccating, not to turn the garden into an ice block. A little bit of moisture goes a long way in ensuring the plant has the energy to sprout again once the spring sun returns.
Overwintering Potted Mums for RVers and Small Spaces
If you are a van-lifer or an RV traveler, you probably keep your mums in pots. Potted plants are much more vulnerable to the cold because their roots are not insulated by the mass of the earth. Knowing what to do with mums in winter when they are in containers requires a slightly different strategy.
The easiest method for travelers is to move the pots into an unheated garage, a shed, or even the “basement” storage compartment of your RV. You want a space that stays above freezing but remains cold enough to keep the plant in a dormant state. A temperature range between 35°F and 50°F is the “sweet spot” for dormant storage.
If you don’t have an indoor space, you can bury the entire pot in the ground. Dig a hole as deep as the container and drop it in, then cover the top with a heavy layer of mulch. This uses the earth’s natural geothermal heat to keep the roots safe until you are ready to hit the road again in the spring.
Managing Moisture in Containers
Potted mums dry out much faster than those in the ground. Check your stored pots once every few weeks. If the soil feels like dust, add just enough water to dampen it. You do not want the soil to be soggy, as this will lead to root rot in the stagnant air of a storage unit or garage.
Keep the plants away from windows if they are in a garage. If they get too much light and warmth, they might try to wake up too early. If the plant starts sending out weak, pale green shoots in February, it is getting too much light or heat. Keep them dark and cool to ensure a successful “hibernation.”
Indoor Storage Strategies for Extreme Cold Zones
In regions where temperatures drop well below zero for weeks at a time, even the best mulch might not be enough. For gardeners in Zone 4 or lower, bringing the plants inside is the most reliable way to ensure survival. This process is often called “overwintering” and it is a common practice among serious homesteaders.
Start by digging up the mums after the foliage has died back. Shake off the excess soil but try to keep the main root mass intact. Place the roots into a pot filled with a mix of peat moss and potting soil. This medium holds just enough moisture to keep the roots alive without becoming a muddy mess.
Store these containers in a dark, cool corner of a root cellar or a crawl space. These areas typically maintain a consistent temperature and humidity level. Check the plants monthly to ensure the soil hasn’t completely dried out. This method is a great way to preserve heirloom varieties that might be hard to replace.
Transitioning Back Outdoors
When spring arrives, you cannot simply move the plants from a dark cellar directly into the bright sun. They need a “hardening off” period, similar to how you would treat new seedlings. Gradually expose them to more light and outdoor air over the course of 7 to 10 days.
Start by placing them in a shaded, protected area for a few hours a day. Slowly increase their time outside and their exposure to direct sunlight. This prevents the new, tender growth from getting scorched by the sun or shocked by a late spring breeze. Once the danger of frost has passed, you can transplant them back into their permanent garden beds.
Essential Tools for Winterizing Your Garden
To succeed at what to do with mums in winter, you need the right gear. Having the proper tools makes the job faster and ensures you don’t accidentally damage the plants during the preparation process. As an outdoor enthusiast, you likely already have some of these items in your kit.
A high-quality pair of bypass pruners is essential. Use these to clean up any diseased foliage before the winter sets in, but remember to leave the healthy dead stems for insulation. Always clean your blades with rubbing alcohol between plants to prevent the spread of garden pathogens.
You will also need a sturdy garden fork or spade if you plan on transplanting or burying pots. For mulching, a pitchfork is much more efficient than a shovel. If you are working in a remote area or a small homestead, a simple trowel and a bag of straw are often all you need to get the job done right.
- Bypass Pruners: For clean cuts that don’t crush the stems.
- Garden Fork: Useful for lifting root balls without excessive damage.
- Mulching Material: Straw, pine needles, or wood chips.
- Watering Can: For controlled hydration during winter thaws.
- Labels: To remember which color mum is planted where.
Common Winter Mistakes to Avoid
Even experienced gardeners can make mistakes when learning what to do with mums in winter. One of the most common errors is pruning the plants back to the ground in the fall. While this makes the garden look “clean,” it removes the plant’s natural protection and often leads to the death of the crown during a deep freeze.
Another mistake is overwatering during dormancy. It is easy to think the plant is thirsty because it looks dead, but dormant plants require very little metabolic support. If you keep the soil saturated, the roots will suffocate and rot. Always use the “finger test” – if the soil feels damp an inch down, leave it alone.
Finally, don’t give up too early in the spring. Mums are often one of the last perennials to wake up. Just because you don’t see green shoots in March doesn’t mean the plant is dead. Give them until late April or even early May to show signs of life before you decide to dig them up and replace them.
The Danger of “Ice Encapsulation”
If you live in an area prone to ice storms, your mums might become encased in a thick layer of ice. While a little ice isn’t a problem, a thick coating can block oxygen from reaching the plant tissues. If this happens, do not try to chip the ice off, as you will likely break the brittle dormant stems.
Instead, let the ice melt naturally. The best way to prevent this issue is to ensure your garden has excellent drainage. Mums hate “wet feet” during the winter. If your garden bed collects standing water, consider mounding the soil or moving your plants to a higher, better-draining location before the ground freezes.
Frequently Asked Questions About what to do with mums in winter
Can I keep my mums in the house as houseplants over winter?
It is very difficult to keep garden mums as standard houseplants. They require a period of cold dormancy to reset their growth cycle. If kept in a warm house all winter, they will become leggy, weak, and susceptible to pests like spider mites. It is much better to keep them in a cool, dark garage or cellar.
Should I fertilize my mums before winter?
No, you should stop fertilizing mums by late summer. Fertilizing in the fall encourages new, tender growth that will be immediately killed by the first frost. This wastes the plant’s energy and can weaken the overall root system. Save the fertilizer for the spring when the plant is actively growing again.
What if my mums are already turning brown?
If the flowers are turning brown but the stems are still green, the plant is simply finishing its bloom cycle. This is the perfect time to start your winter preparations. If the entire plant is brown and brittle after a frost, it has entered dormancy. This is a natural part of the plant’s life cycle and not a sign that it is dead.
How do I know if my mum survived the winter?
In the spring, look for small green rosettes forming at the base of the old, dead stems. You can gently scratch the bark of a main stem near the base; if it is green underneath, the plant is alive. If the stems are brittle and snap easily with a brown interior all the way to the ground, the plant may have succumbed to the cold.
Prepare for a Vibrant Spring Return
Taking the time to learn what to do with mums in winter is a hallmark of a thoughtful and sustainable outdoor enthusiast. Whether you are tending a small garden at your homestead or protecting a few pots on your RV steps, these steps ensure your hard work pays off year after year. By providing proper insulation and monitoring moisture, you turn a “disposable” plant into a permanent part of your landscape.
Remember that gardening, much like wilderness survival, is about working with nature rather than against it. Respect the plant’s need for dormancy, protect it from the extreme elements, and wait patiently for the seasons to change. With a little bit of preparation now, you will be rewarded with a massive explosion of color when the autumn air turns crisp once again.
Stay proactive, keep your tools sharp, and enjoy the peace that comes with a well-prepared winter garden. Happy growing and stay safe out there!
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